guerrilla1138
06-04-2002, 08:27 PM
Fill Your Hand: A short look at the 3 basic Pocket Sticks.
Many times I will reference a few types of “Pocket Sticks”, the 3 basics are the Kubaton, Yawara, and Koppo.
Pretty much all “Pocket Sticks” are derived from these 3. (And pretty much all compact hand held [I.E. not clubs/batons] impact weapons are derived from these 3, or Brass Knuckles, sometimes in combination.)
This is provided as a short descriptive look at these 3 types of sticks, just to familiarize the reader with these tools. I will not really go into technique, however I will provide some links that should be helpful to those wishing to study some techniques.
The principle of the impact stick is simple: A punch, or hammer fist blow (striking in a swinging motion with the top or bottom of a closed fist) has a certain amount of energy behind it, however, because of the size of the fist, this energy is distributed over several inches, and while it may hurt and do damage, there is actually a shock absorbing effect to spreading that energy over a wider area. An impact stick/pocket stick takes that energy, and focuses it onto a ¼” to ¾” in diameter area, full energy transfer, into a much more localized area = more pain & more damage.
The Kubaton
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/kubaton.jpg
The Kubaton is the most basic of them all, a straight stick, made of wood, plastic, or metal (usually aluminum), from 5 to 7 inches in length.
Sometimes made with grooves along the shaft, to aid in grip, and also sometimes made with a tapered (yet not pointy) end, to even further localize the area of energy transfer.
As well as the most basic, this is also the most common. Sold everywhere from online stores, to booths at Karate tournaments, to gas stations even, usually with an attached key-ring. The key-ring attachment is the illogical extension of an illogical and dangerous idea; “Hold the Kubaton, and flail at your attackers eyes and face with your keys.”
This is (A.) Ineffective (B.) Dangerous, and (C.) Stupid. It does less damage to the attacker, and it makes it easier for him to grab onto your hand/weapon.
More damage can be done, faster, and with less danger of loosing your weapon, by closing your fist around the thing, and bashing your attacker in the head, throat, stomach, groin, on the hands, on the knees, or any other vital/debilitating spot, using hammer fist and reverse hammer fist (swinging to hit with the end coming out the top of the fist) strikes.
I, personally, do not like the Kubaton as much as either two types of pocket stick, because I feel it is more prone to slipping in ones hand, and possibly being dropped, when the palm gets sweaty (and/or bloody… although its not really a blood drawing weapon.)
The Yawara
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/yawaras.jpg
The Yawara has its roots in Ju Jitsu, and although supposedly developed under the name Yawara in the earlier 20th century, it is indeed just a re-vamp of a much older idea, but then again, the same can be said for all of these weapons.
It is perhaps the most overlooked of all Pocket Sticks, yet I personally favor it more than I do the Kubaton. It was not un-common for it to be carried by Police Officers during the mid-20th century… and perhaps later.
The original version is basically like the lower of the two in the above picture, wooden, either thicker in the middle, and tapering towards the enlarged ends, or like the example shown, ridged along the gripping area, and enlarged on both ends.
Either the tapering from the middle out, or the ridged treatment, in combination with the larger ends (both of which stick out beyond the hand) make this stick much more secure in the hand.
I have heard that the enlarged ends were designed to catch the cheek during punching, and tear it out. And this does seem to an extent logical, however it also seems like a fairly complex move to act out and have it work, without just getting really lucky, or having a lot of training, so I just consider the traditional Yawara an enhanced Kubaton, with better staying power, when wet from whatever.
The version shown in the top of the picture is a Paint program sketched picture of a Yawara made several years ago by Safariland, it is basically a thicker Kubaton, with nicely done (from the real pictures I have seen) checkering in two area’s, to aid in grip, and two grooves milled around each end… which would seem to support the cheek rip theory.
It would not be my first choice, despite the checkering, because it is still basically just a straight shaft, with no real “stop” to keep the hand from slipping.
The Koppo
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/koppo.jpg
My favourite of them all is The Koppo stick. Again, an idea, resurrected to those not deeply inside the Martial Arts community, this time later in the 20th century.
Similar to a Kubaton, although usually a little longer (6” to 7” or maybe 8” for the right person), and with one unique, yet dazzling, feature; A simple loop of cord, that goes around the Middle and Ring fingers of the hand holding it.
This simple feature adds SO much to the idea of a Pocket Stick, it significantly decreases (if not eliminates) the chances of the stick slipping, any time, damp or otherwise, without needing to add grooves, checkering, ridges, or bulk it up, to taper it, like a Yawara. And it also makes it possible to do something slightly revolutionary, open the hand, to grapple, or apply an attack like a tiger claw to the eyes, and still retain the weapon, because of the cord around your fingers.
And its very comfortable as well, even on hard impact, the cord does not bit into the hand noticeably at all… and the stick remains firm in place.
In theory this is an awesome weapon, and that holds true in practice as well. I think the Koppo is the ultimate Pocket Stick.
Now, this is just personal opinion, of course, but I’m writing this, so you’ll have to deal with that. ;)
Training Links http://www.drearic.com/koppostick.html
Don Rearic Article on the Koppo
http://www.drearic.com/koppostick2.html
A second Rearic article on Koppo style weapons.
http://www.drearic.com/yawara.html
Don Rearic article on the Yawara
And, just for extended learning, http://www.drearic.com/fistload.html
http://www.drearic.com/brassknuckles.html
Two articles on other devices to “Fill Your Hand”, by Don Rearic.
These are simply my favourites on the subject, by someone I respect for his knowledge, other information can be found online, and if you are serious enough about any type of stick to devote $15 to learning more, the book Stick Fighting by Masaaki Hatsumi is invaluable.
Building your own
These particular tools are very simple to make. None of the ones I have owned were bought. Not to say the ones already on the market are bad, they aren’t, at all. Infact I plan on purchasing a titanium JSP Blade-Rigger version of the Koppo (the blue one in the above pic) as soon as I have the money. But, for those on a budget, or just curious, and not wishing to drop their hard earned cash on something they aren’t sure about yet, any of these are pretty easy to make.
The Kubaton and the Koppo are the easiest to make without access to power tools such as a lathe, grinder, or a Dremel tool. The Yawara, because of its more “shapely shape” requires shaping, that’s easiest accomplished on a lathe, or using a grinder and/or dremel. (Not to knock hand tools, I just suck at wood working with hand tools, but if you’re good at that, go for it. J)
All you really need for a Kubaton or a Koppo is a wooden, or aluminum, or synthetic (G-10, Micarta, Lexan) rod, ¼” to ¾” (depending on hand size, what feels comfortable to you) in diameter, and 5” to 7” long (generally), some sand-paper, a hand drill, hand file/rasp, and some para-cord.
For a Kubaton, take your selected length of rod (of whatever material) and if you so wish use your hand file or rasp (preferably round or triangular) and add some gripping grooves along the length of it, then take your sand paper and sand it smooth, slightly rounding each end (so its not sharp on the edges, as that can hurt you if you cap it with your thumb, and it can also poke you uncomfortably when riding in your pocket.) And Viola! Kubaton.
For a Koppo the process is similar, except you don’t need to add gripping grooves, and you have two holes to drill, and cord to run through them. Take your selected length in your hand, then raise your index and pinky finger, leaving your middle and ring finger curled, and mark with a dot on each side of your remaining closed fingers. This is where you want to drill your holes. On one side of the soon-to-be-Koppo, you want to counter-sink your holes. This will be the “back” or “hole side” of the Koppo. The counter-sinking is so that the knots, that keep the cord from slipping through, will be tucked away inside, and not dig into your hand.
Now, sand it smooth, and round the ends as mentioned before.
When attaching the cord, its best to take a long piece, and figure out how long you will need it, before cutting it. Be sure to take the length that will be taken up by the knots into account, and something else to consider is, you want to be able to slip your fingers through the loop with ease in a hurry, without looking, so make it loose, don’t make the loop tight. Once you’ve gotten your cord length figured out, cut it, then run one end through one hole, and tie a tight knot as close to the end of the other as possible, then use a match, and seal off that end, using the melted part to seal down the knot, then pull the knot tight down into the counter-sunk hole. Take the remaining end, and run it back through the other hole, enough to tie the knot, and seal it off as before, then pull it too down tight into the counter sunk hole. And you have a Koppo.
Making a Yawara is more complicated, and I’ve only made one, but basically, you take your rod, this time about 1” diameter, and work it down in the middle, to be a little thinner, and either to taper from the middle out, or to have ridges, leaving the ends full diameter, and then polish it smooth, again, polishing the sharp edge off the ends.
You can do this with a grinder or a dremel, and lots of sanding to even thinks up, or you can do this by turning it on a lathe.
Some notes on working with synthetics and treated or exotic woods; Wear a respirator, G-10 and Micarta both puke out phenol and formaldehyde gas, neither of which you want to breathe. And exotic woods, if you decide to make one really pretty, like Cocobolo for example, are toxic if you breathe the dust. Also any “Spalted” wood, as this is wood that has mold/fungi growing inside it, and has been stabilized like this, its very pretty, but the mold spores could be toxic if released during working it. And any treated wood can contain yucky chemicals which you do not want to breathe either.
A dust mask and eye-protection should be worn no matter what, and a respirator has no exceptions when working materials such as those mentioned.
Some examples of Pocket Sticks I’ve built,
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/rebar%20kubaton.jpg
A Kubaton made from Re-bar, apprx. 7” long.
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/card%20board%20roll%20koppo.jpg
A Koppo made from the inner roll off of Cash Register receipt paper, about 4 ½”-5” long… other holes drilled to add texture.
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/koopo%20kube.jpg
A Kopawara (My own word for a Koppo Yawara combo) made from a broken 1” diameter Ash Escrima stick… about 5 ½” long.
And a steel Kubaton, about 4” long… not the best ever, no gripping texture, and too short, AKA, How NOT to build one.
No matter how you come by it, buy it, or make it, a well made pocket stick, with which you are proficient (its not hard to become so), is a very useful tool.
Drop $5-10 on materials to build yourself one, and $23 on a Kershaw Echo II frame lock (AUS-8 blade steel, all steel handle and clip. Best bang for the buck knife I’ve ever owned), and you’ve got a pretty decent defense package, either to carry when un-able to carry a hand-gun, or to back-up the hand-gun.
Hope y’all enjoyed this, and maybe learned something from it… thoughts, comments, feed-back, and discussion are encouraged, this is a “Discussion” Board after all. :D
Many times I will reference a few types of “Pocket Sticks”, the 3 basics are the Kubaton, Yawara, and Koppo.
Pretty much all “Pocket Sticks” are derived from these 3. (And pretty much all compact hand held [I.E. not clubs/batons] impact weapons are derived from these 3, or Brass Knuckles, sometimes in combination.)
This is provided as a short descriptive look at these 3 types of sticks, just to familiarize the reader with these tools. I will not really go into technique, however I will provide some links that should be helpful to those wishing to study some techniques.
The principle of the impact stick is simple: A punch, or hammer fist blow (striking in a swinging motion with the top or bottom of a closed fist) has a certain amount of energy behind it, however, because of the size of the fist, this energy is distributed over several inches, and while it may hurt and do damage, there is actually a shock absorbing effect to spreading that energy over a wider area. An impact stick/pocket stick takes that energy, and focuses it onto a ¼” to ¾” in diameter area, full energy transfer, into a much more localized area = more pain & more damage.
The Kubaton
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/kubaton.jpg
The Kubaton is the most basic of them all, a straight stick, made of wood, plastic, or metal (usually aluminum), from 5 to 7 inches in length.
Sometimes made with grooves along the shaft, to aid in grip, and also sometimes made with a tapered (yet not pointy) end, to even further localize the area of energy transfer.
As well as the most basic, this is also the most common. Sold everywhere from online stores, to booths at Karate tournaments, to gas stations even, usually with an attached key-ring. The key-ring attachment is the illogical extension of an illogical and dangerous idea; “Hold the Kubaton, and flail at your attackers eyes and face with your keys.”
This is (A.) Ineffective (B.) Dangerous, and (C.) Stupid. It does less damage to the attacker, and it makes it easier for him to grab onto your hand/weapon.
More damage can be done, faster, and with less danger of loosing your weapon, by closing your fist around the thing, and bashing your attacker in the head, throat, stomach, groin, on the hands, on the knees, or any other vital/debilitating spot, using hammer fist and reverse hammer fist (swinging to hit with the end coming out the top of the fist) strikes.
I, personally, do not like the Kubaton as much as either two types of pocket stick, because I feel it is more prone to slipping in ones hand, and possibly being dropped, when the palm gets sweaty (and/or bloody… although its not really a blood drawing weapon.)
The Yawara
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/yawaras.jpg
The Yawara has its roots in Ju Jitsu, and although supposedly developed under the name Yawara in the earlier 20th century, it is indeed just a re-vamp of a much older idea, but then again, the same can be said for all of these weapons.
It is perhaps the most overlooked of all Pocket Sticks, yet I personally favor it more than I do the Kubaton. It was not un-common for it to be carried by Police Officers during the mid-20th century… and perhaps later.
The original version is basically like the lower of the two in the above picture, wooden, either thicker in the middle, and tapering towards the enlarged ends, or like the example shown, ridged along the gripping area, and enlarged on both ends.
Either the tapering from the middle out, or the ridged treatment, in combination with the larger ends (both of which stick out beyond the hand) make this stick much more secure in the hand.
I have heard that the enlarged ends were designed to catch the cheek during punching, and tear it out. And this does seem to an extent logical, however it also seems like a fairly complex move to act out and have it work, without just getting really lucky, or having a lot of training, so I just consider the traditional Yawara an enhanced Kubaton, with better staying power, when wet from whatever.
The version shown in the top of the picture is a Paint program sketched picture of a Yawara made several years ago by Safariland, it is basically a thicker Kubaton, with nicely done (from the real pictures I have seen) checkering in two area’s, to aid in grip, and two grooves milled around each end… which would seem to support the cheek rip theory.
It would not be my first choice, despite the checkering, because it is still basically just a straight shaft, with no real “stop” to keep the hand from slipping.
The Koppo
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/koppo.jpg
My favourite of them all is The Koppo stick. Again, an idea, resurrected to those not deeply inside the Martial Arts community, this time later in the 20th century.
Similar to a Kubaton, although usually a little longer (6” to 7” or maybe 8” for the right person), and with one unique, yet dazzling, feature; A simple loop of cord, that goes around the Middle and Ring fingers of the hand holding it.
This simple feature adds SO much to the idea of a Pocket Stick, it significantly decreases (if not eliminates) the chances of the stick slipping, any time, damp or otherwise, without needing to add grooves, checkering, ridges, or bulk it up, to taper it, like a Yawara. And it also makes it possible to do something slightly revolutionary, open the hand, to grapple, or apply an attack like a tiger claw to the eyes, and still retain the weapon, because of the cord around your fingers.
And its very comfortable as well, even on hard impact, the cord does not bit into the hand noticeably at all… and the stick remains firm in place.
In theory this is an awesome weapon, and that holds true in practice as well. I think the Koppo is the ultimate Pocket Stick.
Now, this is just personal opinion, of course, but I’m writing this, so you’ll have to deal with that. ;)
Training Links http://www.drearic.com/koppostick.html
Don Rearic Article on the Koppo
http://www.drearic.com/koppostick2.html
A second Rearic article on Koppo style weapons.
http://www.drearic.com/yawara.html
Don Rearic article on the Yawara
And, just for extended learning, http://www.drearic.com/fistload.html
http://www.drearic.com/brassknuckles.html
Two articles on other devices to “Fill Your Hand”, by Don Rearic.
These are simply my favourites on the subject, by someone I respect for his knowledge, other information can be found online, and if you are serious enough about any type of stick to devote $15 to learning more, the book Stick Fighting by Masaaki Hatsumi is invaluable.
Building your own
These particular tools are very simple to make. None of the ones I have owned were bought. Not to say the ones already on the market are bad, they aren’t, at all. Infact I plan on purchasing a titanium JSP Blade-Rigger version of the Koppo (the blue one in the above pic) as soon as I have the money. But, for those on a budget, or just curious, and not wishing to drop their hard earned cash on something they aren’t sure about yet, any of these are pretty easy to make.
The Kubaton and the Koppo are the easiest to make without access to power tools such as a lathe, grinder, or a Dremel tool. The Yawara, because of its more “shapely shape” requires shaping, that’s easiest accomplished on a lathe, or using a grinder and/or dremel. (Not to knock hand tools, I just suck at wood working with hand tools, but if you’re good at that, go for it. J)
All you really need for a Kubaton or a Koppo is a wooden, or aluminum, or synthetic (G-10, Micarta, Lexan) rod, ¼” to ¾” (depending on hand size, what feels comfortable to you) in diameter, and 5” to 7” long (generally), some sand-paper, a hand drill, hand file/rasp, and some para-cord.
For a Kubaton, take your selected length of rod (of whatever material) and if you so wish use your hand file or rasp (preferably round or triangular) and add some gripping grooves along the length of it, then take your sand paper and sand it smooth, slightly rounding each end (so its not sharp on the edges, as that can hurt you if you cap it with your thumb, and it can also poke you uncomfortably when riding in your pocket.) And Viola! Kubaton.
For a Koppo the process is similar, except you don’t need to add gripping grooves, and you have two holes to drill, and cord to run through them. Take your selected length in your hand, then raise your index and pinky finger, leaving your middle and ring finger curled, and mark with a dot on each side of your remaining closed fingers. This is where you want to drill your holes. On one side of the soon-to-be-Koppo, you want to counter-sink your holes. This will be the “back” or “hole side” of the Koppo. The counter-sinking is so that the knots, that keep the cord from slipping through, will be tucked away inside, and not dig into your hand.
Now, sand it smooth, and round the ends as mentioned before.
When attaching the cord, its best to take a long piece, and figure out how long you will need it, before cutting it. Be sure to take the length that will be taken up by the knots into account, and something else to consider is, you want to be able to slip your fingers through the loop with ease in a hurry, without looking, so make it loose, don’t make the loop tight. Once you’ve gotten your cord length figured out, cut it, then run one end through one hole, and tie a tight knot as close to the end of the other as possible, then use a match, and seal off that end, using the melted part to seal down the knot, then pull the knot tight down into the counter-sunk hole. Take the remaining end, and run it back through the other hole, enough to tie the knot, and seal it off as before, then pull it too down tight into the counter sunk hole. And you have a Koppo.
Making a Yawara is more complicated, and I’ve only made one, but basically, you take your rod, this time about 1” diameter, and work it down in the middle, to be a little thinner, and either to taper from the middle out, or to have ridges, leaving the ends full diameter, and then polish it smooth, again, polishing the sharp edge off the ends.
You can do this with a grinder or a dremel, and lots of sanding to even thinks up, or you can do this by turning it on a lathe.
Some notes on working with synthetics and treated or exotic woods; Wear a respirator, G-10 and Micarta both puke out phenol and formaldehyde gas, neither of which you want to breathe. And exotic woods, if you decide to make one really pretty, like Cocobolo for example, are toxic if you breathe the dust. Also any “Spalted” wood, as this is wood that has mold/fungi growing inside it, and has been stabilized like this, its very pretty, but the mold spores could be toxic if released during working it. And any treated wood can contain yucky chemicals which you do not want to breathe either.
A dust mask and eye-protection should be worn no matter what, and a respirator has no exceptions when working materials such as those mentioned.
Some examples of Pocket Sticks I’ve built,
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/rebar%20kubaton.jpg
A Kubaton made from Re-bar, apprx. 7” long.
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/card%20board%20roll%20koppo.jpg
A Koppo made from the inner roll off of Cash Register receipt paper, about 4 ½”-5” long… other holes drilled to add texture.
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/frater_ferrum/koopo%20kube.jpg
A Kopawara (My own word for a Koppo Yawara combo) made from a broken 1” diameter Ash Escrima stick… about 5 ½” long.
And a steel Kubaton, about 4” long… not the best ever, no gripping texture, and too short, AKA, How NOT to build one.
No matter how you come by it, buy it, or make it, a well made pocket stick, with which you are proficient (its not hard to become so), is a very useful tool.
Drop $5-10 on materials to build yourself one, and $23 on a Kershaw Echo II frame lock (AUS-8 blade steel, all steel handle and clip. Best bang for the buck knife I’ve ever owned), and you’ve got a pretty decent defense package, either to carry when un-able to carry a hand-gun, or to back-up the hand-gun.
Hope y’all enjoyed this, and maybe learned something from it… thoughts, comments, feed-back, and discussion are encouraged, this is a “Discussion” Board after all. :D